• 0 Posts
  • 3 Comments
Joined 11 months ago
cake
Cake day: October 23rd, 2023

help-circle
  • I recall reading that a huge chunk of their profits comes from women’s watch sales in the Far East. Historically Longines were ‘big’ in the US, Far East & South American markets. Rolex as a comparison were until the 60’s a brand of Britain and her empire/commonwealth.

    On the flyback/speedy comparison, Longines has more history in that area, it’s just the ‘wrong’ kind and of a different era. The Speedy is basically the Moon Watch. That’s pretty much it and boy do Omega know it. Whereas Longines invented the flyback, were building chronographs inhouse pretty much from when men’s watches went from pocket to wrist and invented the very design of the two pusher chronograph. But like you say marketing and the plain fact that Normal People™ buying watches know and care about the Moon thing and nada about the rest.


  • Longines have an incredible heritage. Which in some ways is part of their problem in the current market. Heritage. They were more a brand of the first half of the 20th century and didn’t translate as well as others like Omega or Rolex to the second half and into the common market consciousness of today.

    Heritage? They(along with Omega and Zenith) dominated the Swiss chronometer trials and took the top spot in most prizes awarded. They won more in single years than Rolex won in the entire span of the trials. Brands like Patek didn’t even figure. Oddly even then Longines’ marketing was weird. They pushed the “World’s most honoured watch” but sold few official chronometer tested watches.

    They have a history in aviation, particularly the pioneering days, that brands like IWC or Breitling could only dream about. They were the inhouse chronograph producer in the first half of the 20th century, pretty much everyone else bought in movements. They invented the flyback and the two button chronograph(not Breitling as is often claimed. Well you kinda need a second pusher for flyback). They had ‘calatrava’ style cases before Patek, so came up with that modern style before them. External bezels on near every diver’s watch? Longines had them decades before, but for pilots(interestingly their patent ran out in 1951 and modern divers came out a couple of years later. Probably a coincidence, but interesting). First second timezone on a watch. They along with Girard Perregaux were the first to get into higher frequency movements. When the race for quartz was kicking in they were part of the Swiss beta dev team and had enough spare capacity to develop their own inhouse quartz and bring it to market(and later brought thermocompensation to quartz).

    When Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger LeCoultre, big hitters today in the top end segment, wanted to penetrate the US market in the 40’s and bypass taxes on imports, who did they partner up with? Longines, who had already been shipping 200k movements per year through their Longines Wittnauer factory, to create LeCoultre watches for that market. Longines were huge back then and high quality. VC and JLC didn’t have to worry about them stealing designs.

    It’s post the 1980’s where it went south. They never had a ‘Bond watch’ or any other current famous person watch, real or fictional. They didn’t have a ‘space watch’ and though they certainly had a long history of military issued watches they never really promoted that. They stopped production of inhouse mechanical movements in the 70’s, so missed out on the new “mechanical has soul” stuff. They timed lots of sports events, but again didn’t really push that cohesively enough. Their historical branding was less clear and often scattergun. No distinct and easy to recall lines of Seamasters/Submariners etc

    Most of all they were lumbered with SWATCH’s tiers. They couldn’t compete with Omega and even today you get the sense they’re not allowed to. They’re often subdued even almost apologetic with promoting themselves. They ‘stay in lane’. Which is a pity.


  • “a watch shouldn’t cost more than a Longines” And as it happens before the “quartz crisis”* and subsequent Swiss conglomerates tiering the brands they rarely enough did(brands like Patek and AP were a tiny and very rarefied segment).

    If in say 1970 you wanted a good quality diver’s watch from the bigger Swiss brands, Omega, Longines, Rolex, Blancpain, Zenith et al they all cost an average months wages or under. Why? Well it was far less about luxury for a start and more, they were independent companies all competing for the same customers in the same jeweller’s shop window. They couldn’t afford to drift too far away from the “a quality dive watch costs 200 quid” perception. People paid more for innovations like electronic or the latest thing quartz(a lot more for the latter).

    Adverts of the time can be interesting and show how much has changed. Below is a British Omega advert from 72. The UK average yearly wage ran around 1400 pounds, or 116 per month.

    https://preview.redd.it/f0orfh4r4pwb1.jpeg?width=1300&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce71f84dd1be0799ed760e55dadd13eb80c24f11

    The 18 carat lump of gold is obviously the most expensive at 575, but it’s the electronic watch that follows it and is more expensive than the Seamaster Ploprof and a goodly chunk more than the Speedmaster. How much are they today compared to average annual wages? There was a chap a few years ago who calculated based on wages/costs of living that an Omega Speedy today costs something like 4-5 times the price it did when astronauts were actually wearing them on the Moon. Rolex subs went up even more.

    Brands(outside Rolex, who always had a narrow range)also tended to have a much wider range of watches at widerr ranges of price. Streamlining was far less a thing with the big hitters.

    So in many ways if you wanted to get a feel for what the industry and market used to be like, Longines today is almost a time capsule of that as far as the range available and most of all their prices.

    *it was far more a digital crisis, but that’s another discussion