You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I’ll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.

Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜

Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.

As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn’t make a huge difference, as long as it’s from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.

Thanks for your help!

Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!

From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.

My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.

Do you expect every meme to be meticulously handcrafted? It’s a stupid joke, not a work of art.

Close, but the word ends in -le, not -ie. The -le suffix is used as a diminutive form in some German dialects.

If that freehub is constructed like the ones I’ve taken apart before, you’re out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.

You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won’t work if it’s very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don’t want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.

IIRC, this is actually done at some point in the books.

That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)

I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.

I’m guessing it’s about documenting the assembly of safety-critical components. If some part of, let’s say an airplane fails because a bolt comes loose, the manufacturer wants to have a paper trail attached to it to prove that this specific bolt was indeed torqued to the correct spec. Connecting the wrench to the network could make this documentation much easier.

Those adapters should definitely be fine for 24 V. Running the fans off 19 V will probably work, but they will run at slightly slower RPM (probably not a big problem for a filter).

You could use a voltage divider followed by a unity-gain amplifier to lower the output impedance, about like this: (I think that circuit could work, but I haven’t thought about it a lot, so it might not)

Not really. With that bulb, all the light is focused forward, not to the side. The light will never hit the reflector, it is only focused by the lens in the LED housing, and that isn’t enough.

From looking at the LED bulb, I can tell you that it will not work very well in that flashlight.

The reflector of the flashlight is built so light coming from a very small source (like the filament of an incandescent bulb) is directed forward in a focused beam. With the led bulb, light is coming from 10 different spots, none of them being in the focus point of the reflector. The result will be a spread out beam that won’t be bright over longer distances.

The only type of LED bulb that could work is something like this car replacement bulb that keeps the light source to a relatively small spot. But I don’t think those are available in the size you need.

3

These brakes are single-pivot side-pull caliper brakes. They can work well, but only if they are well made - I personally never had much luck with Weinmann brakes.

For the rear brake, pretty much the only thing you can try is replacing the brake pads. The front ones don’t look very worn, but the rubber gets hard with age and loses its effectiveness.

The front brake looks broken beyond repair. The part I circeled red should be attached to the green part, but the connecting part seems to have broken off. You might be able to find a replacement, but I would recommend replacing the whole brake for a better one.

As a young child, I had a wooden board with a bunch of different light switches mounted to it. Nothing to tinker with, but I had a lot of fun with the physical sensation of switching them on and off. I think that’s all you can really ask for at that age.

Later on, I enjoyed taking the switches apart, figuring out how they work and using them in my electronics projects.

My point is, whatever you choose should be physically fun, even without understanding it. A few switches and maybe a blinking light can entertain a toddler for a long time. The tinkering can come later.