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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: August 8th, 2023

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  • My understanding is that current atomic clocks work on changing the state of whole atoms.

    Whereas this new method changes the state of part of the nucleus of an atom.

    Basically smaller is more precise. However given that current atomic clocks are one second out over something like a billion years I’ve no idea what benefit this extra preciseness will give us.

    We’ll probably start noticing really weird shit when we look at time that precisely. That’s generally what’s happened when we get into the quantum scale of things.




  • Did you read the recall? Again it says hood latch switch deformation.

    That may be part of the hood latch assembly but again at no point does it say that the latch not latching is the issue. Only the reporting of the latching state.

    You’re really rather pathetic and I’m certainly no fan of Tesla or Musk. A brief check of my previous posts would confirm this.

    As you’re obviously not very good at reading or understanding things then that fact probably did slip by you. You seem to be only capable of latching (you might not see what I did there being a bit dense) onto certain words without understanding the full issue.





  • The comments read like a lot of people don’t quite understand the issue.

    The bonnet (hood if you insist) latch may not warn a driver if it isn’t secured correctly. If it is secured correctly then it is fine. So it isn’t going to suddenly open.

    If the latch isn’t shut correctly and then the sensor doesn’t report this then the bonnet may open unexpectedly.

    If they can use a software update to correct the reporting then that’s it fixed.

    There’s no issue with the actual latching mechanism. It’s just the sensor for reporting the latching state.

    It may be that it currently works on a two value system. i.e a value for correctly latched and a value for not latched. If that’s the case and isn’t just not providing the second valve correctly then a simple software change to only use the latched value would fix this. As any other value or the absence of a value will report it at unlatched.





  • That’s very strange. On the recent earnings call the Muskinator said they were bringing forwards the release of new models.

    Must have some genius way to do that without the new models team and a charging infrastructure.

    Unless he’s just running round saying one thing and then making stupid decisions 2 minutes later. No past evidence of that though…





  • They don’t need cable cutters. They can just undo one of the bolts holding the seat together, pull the cable out and then undo the seat post bolt to remove the seat. So all you’ve really done is have them undo an extra bolt. No need to cut the cable.

    Keep more cable for securing both wheels and D lock frame to post. If they’re really bothered about the seat get a security seat post bolt.


  • Never seen anyone actually doing it but have seen the results. If they are serious bike thieves they will take as much as they can as quickly as they can.

    They’ll make a quick assessment. I can get all of a bike apart from the wheels quickly with very little noise vs spending the time dealing with the hardened lock. They will go for the quicker and quieter option.


  • Should have said, unbolt and damage the wheels then lift away.

    Which could be done with a spanner and by standing on the back wheel to squash it to an oval and push it through.

    So then you’re buying a hardened D lock and making it as strong as an aluminium and rubber wheel. If they have very basic cutters they are through both wheels in seconds and can lift the bike away. Leaving the lock intact on the bar.

    No point in having a hardened lock if it is going to be used like this. Just buy a bargain basement long cable lock as all the benefits of the hardened D are being removed.


  • The front wheel is correct but I would move the D lock at the back. It is only round a wheel and a mudguard.

    Your current method means the frame could be stolen by undoing the wheel bolts and lifting away. Can’t see exactly how the mudguards are fixed and they might complicate it a bit but not much.

    I’d suggest low on the seat tube just above the chain ring and then loop the cable round the front and back wheels and into the D lock.

    Edit: forgot. Don’t bother looping up through the seat like that. If they want to steal that with the cable there it’s only two bolts. It’s only one without the cable but if you were still worried you can get security seatpost bolts