Possibly Huawei if you’re not in the US. Sony open backs? Or maybe just some xiaomi model, but I can’t vouch for sound there.
I’m in the same boat and use the regular airpods 2. The 3rd gen would be ideal too unless Huawei entices me to switch over.
No, thank you for making me get out of bed to set it up on my server.
The mobile app is so much better. Plex works better on LG WebOS, but I’d say it’s on equal footing on Google TV.
Tailscale also seemed to work perfectly fine for remote access.
I’m doing it on a ln i3 6th gen SFF PC. It’s holding up quite well for many other things as well. A pi could suffice, but maybe for a single user at a time.
Let’s put it this way. Split screen was a mostly console exclusive feature before some genius decided to kill it off. Locking multiplayer behind a pay wall at some point was also the stupidest idea I’ve ever seen.
Most new titles for consoles are exactly as enjoyable on PC. The experience is almost identical. Companies prefer it this way too.
They can make a nice exclusive and release it for PC 2 years later to reap double the profit.
The above has me thinking that consoles are becoming a niche. I’d just get a steam deck for portable gaming and a play pass for the exclusives not yet available on PC.
The smoke is from the rosin core and flux. Lead free is equally bad for the lungs.
I wouldn’t eat after touching Lead though.
Yeah, just gonna chime in here real quick.
I went down this road just as you. I found out that most MOTs are rather weak for 18650 nickel strips.
You need a transformer rated around 1500 watts. Most are 700-900 watts. I ended up wiring 2 transformers in parallel. Also, make sure to remove the transformer’s shunts. They are a form of current limiting and will impact your amps at the end.
Finally, make sure to carefully regulate your pressure with the copper tips. High pressure does indeed equal a weaker weld.
AC in general is also not the best for very short pulses of welds. I have found that 40-60ms work best for 0.2 with around 1000amps. Anything less didn’t weld tbh and the MOT couldn’t pull amps fast enough. I tried all sorts of windings and cable thicknesses. I finally chose 6AWG and I’m happy enough with 2 transformers.
Yeah, that seems like a good way to go. 65 degrees at ground level is what I’d also expect. My assumption up top would be close to 90/95 degrees. Driving the pump more often would be interesting.
Could you send it over? Seems good to check it out. I’ll be on the lookout for a more powerful transformer in the meantime. I also went out and bought a more reputable SSR still rated at 40 amps.
Hmm, the heater element being controller disregarding your will is a bit of a bummer.
Thanks for clarifying, so you are indeed circulating the water itself, it’s not a separate line used as a heater. In this case you really are at the mercy of either your pump, pipe length, ambient temperature, insulation and/or sun intensity.
Have you monitored the temperature at the panel on the roof itself? Also, what type of insulation are you running on those pipes?
Hmm, maybe I should have clarified. You would be correct if I was talking about doubling the overall power. I meant simply adding another turn to my secondary coils so as to raise the voltage and lower the amps a bit or to connect the 2 transformers in series.
Caps seem like a decent idea actually. The house is rated for something north of 40 amps so I should be fine for a ms load.
OK this is interesting, but also differs. If I have read correctly, you’re circulating the water in the system as a whole.
I’m also using a solar setup, but I’m using a serpentine coil running a separate coolant liquid. The coolant is used since winter goes from -10 to minimim -20 degrees celsius.
What are your coldest months like?
Recently got good in making sourdough. But I could also add plastering walls. I’m semi-decent at it.