My coworker has an absolutely huge passion for photography, he’s the type of guy who couldn’t wait for the workday to be over just to head out with his cameras and drones and take pictures (and his pictures are not less than breathtaking) and has been for years.

Sadly, a little over a year ago on his way to work a drunk driver swerved into his lane, and crashed into his car head-on.

He broke both of his hands and wrists (probably due to the airbags) and undergone several surgeries and he hasn’t been able to hold a camera since. He has been in physiotherapy since but he isn’t a young bloke (roughly 55 - 57) and recovery takes a good while.

A full frame camera is simply too heavy for him to hold, and his hands are shaking aggressively.

Seems like a solution would have to be a combination of taking the load off his hands and stabilization for the shakiness.

I would love to hear suggestions and advice from the wise people here.

Edit: I forgot to mention he mostly films wild life, he can lay down and hide in a bush for literally hours waiting for a certain animal.

  • West-Ad-1144@alien.topB
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    10 months ago

    i can’t speak for a method of supporting the camera in his hands, but look into systems with both in body image stabilization AND in lens stabilization. I’m kind of surprised by the shutter speeds with which I can get sharp shots. i have a nikon z5 with in body stabilization and carry a lens with stabilization too. i don’t have a physical disability, but i’m a bit jittery and have noticed a big improvement.

    a full frame mirrorless may be a bit heavy, but to my knowledge, olympus and other micro 4/3 systems have very light cameras and lenses with stabilization that are typically marketed to adventure and wildlife photographers who don’t want to carry a ton of weight in their backcountry packs. the 2x crop factor can be great for wildlife since you can get huge reach with smaller lenses. the low light capability is the primary sacrifice with these lightweight 2x crop cameras, but i’m of the mind that a well-composed shot is good whether there’s a little noise or not, and high iso noise can be repaired to some degree with software.