Your camera should have a LONG EXPOSURE NOISE REDUCTION setting. if it is enabled, the camera will take a 2nd 30 second shot with the shutter closed, and it will then subtract that noise from the first pic. This can also be done manually by putting the lens cap on and doing a long exposure and then using software to do the subtraction. The first way is easier, but not always practical. YT search how to do both for details for your specific camera.
It’ll be cookie-cutter though after a few cars. All the same angles and features for each car model. Once the car is staged, it’ll be muscle memory to get the pics quickly. Personally, I would shoot in .jpg and do almost no post processing.
I am just guessing, but I imagine most dealerships have a department that does this already, or they just send out the newest salesman out with his iPhone to get the pics. BUT, I’m not discouraging you from asking. You never know until you ask. As for lenses, a fast aperature lens isn’t needed at all. A sharp and wide lens like a 24-70 and an even wider lens like a 14-24 for interiors would probably cover everything inside and out. Youll probably shoot at f7.1 to f11 or higher to get everything in focus too. A 360⁰ camera may add some value as well. Good luck and let us know if you get any bites.
Topaz AI is pretty amazing. It won’t fix everything, and it will make things worse with its AI sometimes, but overall I’ve been able to rescue some memories that were otherwise lost. Again, it isn’t magic, but it will surprise you sometimes.
Individually (by shoot or subject). The SYNC feature is great for doing several similar photos, and then just minor tweaks and corrections as needed for each keeper. If it isn’t a keeper, I delete them ASAP. Over time, you’ll most likely find presets and actions you do routinely for your style. Learn how to save presets and name them appropriately to get a jump start on most images, but don’t forget to experiment too.
IMHO, a calibrated monitor is only useful if you are printing your photos. This way you will get consistent results from your prints. Otherwise, you are just processing photos and videos on a calibrated monitor for everyone else in the world to view in uncalibrated monitors and cell phones, and the benefits are lost in translation.
I ran into this issue doing real estate photography. Sure, my monitor looks great, but my realtors and realty web sites just don’t see it the same way because they are just not calibrated.
Loosen em up with some alcohol…OH MY! Sounds like a real pro!
Pixieset.