Save screenshots of all the tracking staus pages in case they become unavailable.

Open and shut chargeback. CC company shouldn’t hassle you at all, you have 1 tracking number with DHL saying delivered and the subcontractor saying damaged - not delivered. Clear chain of custody to a non-deliver. Plus it’s only $250.

Just expect Jomashop to blacklist you. Not that I’d expect you to order from them again…

First off, Seiko’s stated accuracy for their 6R is actually worse than what you’ve listed.

Source: Seiko’s own technical specs say +25 - 15 seconds per day

Your post is interesting but I think it is fundamentally flawed. The “stated” accuracy of these movements straight from the factory isn’t the only factor to consider. Many of the brands that use ETA, Sellita, STP, etc will perform modifications, service, and add custom parts to these movements to improve the accuracy and durability of the movement out of the factory. Brands like Sinn and Hamilton do this to varying degrees. It also serves as a second level of QC that doesn’t happen with Seiko.

It’s like comparing a stock engine straight from the factory to one that’s been tuned and slightly modified by a mechanic. They might have the same listed horsepower and be the same engine, but one will outperform the other. Grades are also a thing to consider ex: https://calibercorner.com/sellita-caliber-sw220-1/ Sinn for example uses the SSW-220-1. You might google that and say the accuracy is up to +/- 30 s/d. However that movement has 4 grades, and Sinn uses the “top” grade of movement with a stated accuracy of +/- 4 s/d.

Source: Seiko own technical specs say +25 - 15 seconds per day on the 6R but ok

I’ve owned several new and used 6R and 4R Seikos and they aren’t lying.

Jesus that’s the price of a used Oris Big Crown Pointer Date, Sinn 104/556/856, even some Nomos models. This could be the worst value watch you could pick under €1000.

Seiko puts out terrible movements these days at this price. The 4R and 6R movements often run +/- 25 s/d.

Also no thief is gonna target you because you’re wearing a Seiko my man. They have a reputation as being affordable watches (even though that’s not necessarily true anymore)

No… just like I would never buy a car without test driving, I would never buy high-dollar watches without trying them on first (unless it was stupid easy to resell or return without taking a loss)

Buying a different thing to see if I like a thing is backwards af and a waste of money.

In my opinion the 500-600 range doesn’t have great value, outside of some interesting microbrand options (Zelos, Farer, Traska, Baltic to name a few)

Until you reach $1-1.7k (Oris, Sinn, etc), there is far better value to be had in the $200-400 range.

If I were you I’d nab 2 watches: dressier watch on leather like an Orient Bambino or a Seiko Cocktail time, and a diver (bracelet/rubber) from Seiko, Orient, or maybe the Casio Oceanus line.

Personally think this will be a much more enjoyable entry into watches for you. If you’re dead set on a single watch woth a ton of strap options, my rec based on what you’re looking for is a PRX 40mm.

First it was $50 Vostoks. Then $200 Seikos. Then I bought a Hamilton for $400. Then I bought a Sinn for $1000. Then I bought a Tudor for $2700. Then a ln Omega for $3200. Then I bought a Tudor for $4200. Then I bought a Grand Seiko for $4800.

Direct correlation to my income.

At some point I’ll buy a GO PML for $7k. Then I’ll probably buy a Rolex for $10k.

Then in 40 years, I’ll die and a nephew will inherit all my watches and post them here to legit check before pawning them.