Im okay with a deviation of ± 12 sec/day, beyond that i tru to get the regulated

if accuracy is so important why don’t u just buy a 50 bucks quartz and be done with it instead of going into mechanical watch.

Exactly what I’ve done, very early, after I started having an interest in watches. My most expensive quartz is a The Citizen (fka as Chronomaster) HAQ: accuracy -/+ 5 SPY (Eco Drive). And yes, that ‘Y’ means year.

Most others feature ‘assisted accuracy’ (GPS or atomic clock radio signal time sync). I’ve found my niche, and there’s much to enjoy.

I crave accuracy, my brain is wired that way. I’ve said it elsewhere: my heroes are Japanese station masters who apologise publicly and profusely when the Shinkansen is 10 seconds late.

I don’t care about second hands not ‘sweeping’, or not ‘hitting the markers’. Please note, that I greatly respect the craft that goes into mechanical watches. But their lack of accuracy (compared to quartz) would drive me mad.

Yeah, my Seiko (cocktail time) has garbage accuracy, Running on average -13spd.

My Longines Master with the L888 (moonphase) is actually very good, about -1spd

My Tudors are a mixed bag, the ETA movement in my BB36 runs -3.6spd, but the own movement in the Pelagos 39 is running an average of ±0.0spd over the last six months, but that is a COSC certified movement.

Does it matter? Actually as I’ve got more watches I care less, as even though many of them are on winders, I’m more than happy to reset them when I get them out.

If I need accuracy, my GShock with radio control, or hell, my AppleWatch go on the wrist (shock, I never need that accuracy!)

You didn’t account for the price difference between the watches you mentioned and the Seiko

The Seikos with the -10/+15 spec have the L movements and are generally over $3000

• That is 4 times the price of a PRX
• That’s more than 4 times the price of a Hamilton Kahki
• Almost 3 times the cost of a CW12
• 1.5 times as much as a Longines Conquest

Two big factors: First, that people have it ingrained in them that Swiss watches = superior, even if they know how much of that perception is just marketing. Second, Seiko (and GS) has a tendency (speaking from personal experience as well as broad anecdotes in watch fandom) to understate the accuracy of movements, rather than overstate it.

(Seiko also doesn’t regulate movements particularly well in lower end watches, and likely doesn’t care to, as supreme accuracy is why you buy a spring drive or a 9F movement GS, and you buy a Turtle or a Marinemaster for affordable-ish hardiness and reliability)

You’re cherry picking examples. So let me also cherry pick some:

• CW C65 Sandhurst, $1095 on NATO, Chronometer
• Tissot Le Locle COSC, $360
• Certina DS Action, Chronometer, $635

There are dozens of Swiss Chronometers under $1000, it’s not hard to find them. Tons of Certina and Tissot.

On the other hand:

• New Seiko Marinemaster, $3400, +15/-10 spd
• SJE093 62MAS Re-issue, $3700, +15/-10 spd
• Very Popular Seiko SPB series, >$1000, +25/-15 spd
• New Seiko Prospex Diver GMT and Alpinist GMT w/ 6R34, >$1500, +25/-15 spd

I love Seiko, but I do personally feel like Seiko’s offerings above $1000 lack the accuracy spec, and it’s kept me from buying them before. $1500 for +25/-15 spd on the Diver GMT? That’s pretty bad, especially for a brand with a more value-oriented reputation.

First off, Seiko’s stated accuracy for their 6R is actually worse than what you’ve listed.

Source: Seiko’s own technical specs say +25 - 15 seconds per day

Your post is interesting but I think it is fundamentally flawed. The “stated” accuracy of these movements straight from the factory isn’t the only factor to consider. Many of the brands that use ETA, Sellita, STP, etc will perform modifications, service, and add custom parts to these movements to improve the accuracy and durability of the movement out of the factory. Brands like Sinn and Hamilton do this to varying degrees. It also serves as a second level of QC that doesn’t happen with Seiko.

It’s like comparing a stock engine straight from the factory to one that’s been tuned and slightly modified by a mechanic. They might have the same listed horsepower and be the same engine, but one will outperform the other. Grades are also a thing to consider ex: https://calibercorner.com/sellita-caliber-sw220-1/ Sinn for example uses the SSW-220-1. You might google that and say the accuracy is up to +/- 30 s/d. However that movement has 4 grades, and Sinn uses the “top” grade of movement with a stated accuracy of +/- 4 s/d.

Seiko doesn’t live up to their reputation. My pressage has terrible accuracy and terrible QC. In contrast, my Citizen is dead nuts accurate with great build quality. Seiko is massively overrated imo

If you need accuracy there is no point in buying an expensive mechanical watch. A $5 digital quartz is going to be more accurate

If you care about accuracy get a Citizen.

I switch out the watches I wear so often, they wind down and all have to be set again. I don’t wear any one watch long enough for accuracy flaws to matter.

When I first started collecting ‘higher end’ watches twenty years ago and bought my first Rolex, I was obsessed with the accuracy of it, checking it against time.gov every day, checking my watches against each other, ect.

I’m now at the point that those little details of something is +2 seconds, +12 seconds, it -25 seconds a day do not bother me a bit. If someone is really that concerned, just purchase a HEQ Grand Seiko, beautiful watch, string movement, and it’s like +/- 5 seconds per year. I picked one up this year and I literally only have to adjust it twice per year with the time change.

Luck of the draw. I just buy a casio analog digital for my work where i need accurate time keeping.

Yes.

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I have a Mido Seastar that cost the same as my Seiko SPB 143.

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The Mido uses a powermatic that is within cosc.

The Seiko SPB loses 25 seconds per day.

It’s awfull

do ppl even care about accuracy? i kind of hate wearing my mechanical watches because if i dont wear them for 1 1/2 day, theyll stop ticking anywyas.