Self hosted matomo works well for me. Small site, I just want to have a bit of an idea about what is popular and where visitors come from. I’ve had it installed for ages and incremental updates work fine.
I hear that matomo can get resource heavy if your site draws large amounts of visitors. Which makes sense, but it might be something to take into account, and maybe install it on a separate (virtual) machine.
They also seem to think that continually spending money to do mundane things in a virtual world is not a problem for regular people who actually have to watch their spending.