Can you share some numbers? It’s hard to know how to help if we don’t know how much power we are talking about.

The same reason people buy and wear vintage clothing or classic cars. It’s an appreciation of the past and a desire to have something different that the flashy, manufactured present. Like all things, it will fade again.

Really, so my camera with 60 MP, 15 stops of dynamic range and great low light performance doesn’t represent an improvement over sensor technology from 20 years ago? I beg to differ.

As you have pointed out, every device has a different screen and images will look different from one to another. Mobile devices and PCs are setup to show highly saturated, high contrast images. As someone else said, “punchy” and people have gotten conditioned to want this look on their screens.

If you are only using your photography on screens, I don’t think you should bother with calibration. This is because you’re editing an image on a calibrated monitor and displaying it on a variety of other screens that are uncalibrated. It won’t look right.

However, if you are going to print your photos, calibration is critical. Printed photos do not look like the punchy screens. In this case you are calibrating your monitor to show you what the image will look like in print. Even then, there are usually tweaks you need to do to get the screen to match the final print, but starting with a calibrated monitor gets you 90% there.

This absolutely would work if you don’t have a switch that can be configured to disable the relay. As others have said, there are several of these on the market now.